Pink Ruffles

Pink doesn’t really stand out in my wardrobe. But that’s not to say that I don’t love the colour. Especially a dusty, soft coloured pink. Add ruffles, and I’m in love! So when I saw this dress by Brandon Maxwell from one of his last collections, I knew I had to make a knock-off version of my own. Especially after having seen the price of it at over $3000!!

I already had the perfect fabric in my stash, which happened to be a beautiful blush pink wool with a tiny bit of stretch in it from The Fabric Store in Melbourne. It needed underlining because it was a little thin and could have potentially been see through with the wrong coloured underwear!

  

The next step was to find the best pattern for this frilly little lollypop. I searched deep and wide and then found this Cynthia Rowley pattern on the internet that I had planned on buying anyway. It seemed perfect for this dress with a few hacks. I left the collar plain, without ruffles and decided where the best place was to add the ruffles to the skirt and the sleeves. So I basically only used the pattern for the bodice and the sleeves.

I had read a not-so-good review about this dress pattern and it turning out much larger than it should be for size and fit, so I was a bit sceptical about how it would fit me. But again, I couldn’t be bothered making a muslin and went by the sizing on the pattern envelope. I played it safe and cut size 10, just to make sure it would fit me in the hip area.

Luckily I had a perfectly matched cotton sateen to use for underlining in my stash and light pink thread, so I was able to use up two fabrics without having to buy anything but a zip for this make. Unfortunately, even though I practically used up two fabrics to make this dress, there is no noticeable decline in my stash! That should give you an idea about the size of it! I am trying my hardest to stay away from fabric stores and not add to the stash, but am not always successful if I think there is some kind of fabric I just can’t live without! Still need to work on my restraint because I just don’t have the time to sew as fast as I can buy!

Once the body of the dress was underlined and sewn together, I overlocked the edges and put the invisible zip in the centre back. Then it was time to ruffle! This was the hardest part of the whole project  because I had a limited amount of fabric left over for the ruffles. I was sort of guessing the height of the ruffles by looking at every single picture of the Maxwell Brandon dress I could find on the internet. I decided with the amount of fabric I had left, I could afford to make the ruffles 15cm tall each. This meant cutting the fabric into 30cm strips, using the whole width of the fabric and folding it in half. The next step was to figure out the width and depth of each pleat. The problem was, the side seams and back seam all had to have a pleat aligned to them and they all had to be evenly spaced out. So I sat there for quite some time thinking about the mathematics of spacing the pleats out evenly.

 

After several attempts at making the ruffles and then having to unpick them, I finally got it right and just needed to decide on the level of ruffle tiers for the skirt and sleeves. I wanted the dress to have a similar length as the original.

The last thing I added to the dress was the stand up collar, which I simply cut on the bias in two layers using the tiny bit of remnant fabric I had.

Now that the dress is finished, I think I will try to take the sides in a bit, as it is a bit roomier than the original and I would prefer it to have a slightly smaller waist than it has.

I didn’t iron the ruffles because I thought they would be more voluminous if they weren’t ironed flat. I know they won’t stay that way forever when the dress is dry cleaned or washed, but at least they are nice and fluffy for now!

 

 

 

 

I am happy with the way the dress has turned out but have to agree with that review on this Cynthia Rowley pattern. It is slightly too large and boxy and I will end up taking in the sides a bit and possibly narrowing the shoulders a little as well.

 

 

I will definitely be using this pattern again to make the two garments that it was designed for but may need to go down a size for a more fitted look in the dress. I like to be able to move comfortably in my clothing, but I also prefer it to have a more fitted than loose appearance.

Thank you to my dear friend Meg for spending her day off taking these amazing photos for me!

STYLING: boots – Zara, sunglasses – Margot by Tom Ford, ring – Apart Fashion.

LOCATION: Luna Park, Melbourne.

PHOTOGRAPHY: meggi-design.

 

Black Tweed Shorts

These tweed shorts are ancient! But since winter is upon us in the Southern Hemisphere, I had to blog them because they are my winter go-to item that I wear quite often with black opaque stockings.

Before having lived in Europe, I had never seen or heard of winter shorts worn with stockings. I only knew summer shorts! So when I discovered them, I jumped on the bandwagon and made myself a pair. I also thought they were warmer than a short skirt in the cold and looked kinda chic with boots. They were quite trendy amongst girls and women in the colder seasons.

I made these out of the fabric remnants of a jacket I made a long, long time ago when we still lived in Germany. The fabric is a black wool and silk tweed.

 

There wasn’t much fabric left to use for anything much but I managed to squeeze out these guys. They ended up being a little too short for my taste, so I had to use small pieces to lengthen them with strips of fabric on the bottom of each leg as much as I could. It came down to every centimetre!

For the pattern, I just used another pair of pants I had that fit me well, lay them flat on top of the fabric and cut around the edges, leaving enough for the seams. To be honest, I don’t even know which pants I used for the pattern. That says a lot about their age!

They are loose fitting, totally comfy and sort of just sit on the hip. And…they are quick and easy to make!

The shorts have two darts each front and back and are lined edge to edge with a simple black lining fabric. There is no waistband and a dress zip closes them off at the back.

I like to wear these shorts with boots. Heeled or flat ones. And of course opaque stockings, (which I coincidentally didn’t in these photos😬).

Sometimes an outfit in one colour looks great and I do like an all black look. But I also like to throw in a splash of colour to pep things up. So that was the red coat’s job here. And also sticking to the autumn colour scheme, as it was when we took the photos.

There are some more winter shorts planned for this season in thicker, wintery fabrics. They are a nice alternative to skirts when it gets cold. Worn with tall or ankle boots. Maybe even a winter playsuit? Let’s see what the stash has to offer in suitable fabrics!

Do you have an older clothing piece that is your favourite or go-to in a particular season?

LOCATION: Mt. Buffalo, Victorian High Country

STYLING: coat – Zara, boots – Zara, hat – FCUK, sunglasses – Agenda, top – Zara

The Ladies Tux

dsc_0532a

I made this black lace jumpsuit, which is my version of a ladies tux for the Tessuti Cut Out Lace Competition late last year. Unfortunately I didn’t win any of the prizes with it, but taking part in the competition was a lot of fun and I got a nice evening style jumpsuit out of it.

dsc_0501a

The lace fabric is from Tessuti in Melbourne. It’s a cotton/polyester blend and despite the pattern going through it, easy to sew. The fabric came in panels. I bought 3 panels for this jumpsuit just to be sure I would have enough to match and mirror the pattern where needed.

 

My inspiration for the sleeves of the jumpsuit was a jacket I saw by Carolina Herrera in black lace. The sleeves were just the thing I was looking for! Although the sleeves on her jacket are quite a lot more voluminous and longer than mine. I wanted mine be somewhere between three quarters and seven eighths long.

  

I used Vogue V1471 by Nicola Finetti for the top of the jumpsuit. I had no idea whether the plunge in the front was too deep or not because I didn’t bother making a muslin to try it out before cutting into the limited amount of lace I had.

  

I used Simplicity 1665 for the pants and extended them by about 5cm to make sure they went down to my ankles. I measured  the length I thought the pants should be but was still risking it a bit because I wanted the edge to be on point in length, as I was using the selvage with the dotted pattern as my hem. I measured and remeasured and remeasured again until I was 100% sure it was the right length before cutting. There was no room for error! It just wouldn’t have looked nice if the edging had been sewn on. It had to be in one piece.

ivona-nagel-front2

Cutting the pattern out was pretty scary because I could not afford for any mistakes to happen. I only had the three panels to use very cautiously and didn’t want to end up buying more.

dsc_0552a

I was tossing up between lining the whole thing in skin coloured dance fabric or just lining the bodice in skin coloured fabric and the legs in black. I opted for black legs because I thought it would look too risqué if it looked like it was skin coloured everywhere. I think I made the right decision in hindsight, especially if I really plan to wear it anywhere!

dsc_0579ab

So for the legs, I used black taffeta as lining and beautifully soft skin coloured dance fabric for the bodice as lining. I didn’t line the sleeves to save time and felt it wasn’t necessary.

dsc_0677a1

To make the bell sleeves, I sewed the bottom part of the bell sleeve with the dotted pattern to the top gathered part and then attached them to the main sleeve. To give the sleeves a rounded shape and make them stand out a bit, I used black boning that I encased into the seam of the top and bottom of the ruffled sleeve by hand stitching it in place.

ivona-nagel-detail1

The decollete did end up being somewhat more revealing than I would have liked it to be, so I used the dotted pattern in the lace to cover up a bit of exposed flesh (!) by sewing it into the seam in the front and around the back. Even though it is quite narrow, I do find it helps to cover up at least a little and adds more to the overall look by repeating the dotted pattern on the sleeve and pant edges.

dsc_0745a

The most challenging thing about making this jumpsuit, was to make sure the pattern matched up perfectly where it should and having enough of the fabric to do so. I was always playing around with the pattern pieces before cutting to make sure I was getting the best part of the pattern on each piece.

dsc_0736a

I pretty much used up most of the fabric and only have bits and pieces left that I still hope to utilise in some way for a small something.

dsc_0751ab

 

dsc_0756a

 

dsc_0885a

When I was sewing this jumpsuit, I was very unsure of whether I would like it or not. Every time I tried it on to check for fit and adjustments, I thought: I am either going to love it or hate it when it’s finished. Well, I have to say I do love it, which surprised me because I really thought it would be the opposite. I just have to have an event to wear it to now!

dsc_0847ab

I am happy with the matching up of the lace pattern in the front and back. I put in a very long invisible zip to make sure I could get in and out of the jumpsuit comfortably and also to keep the pattern in the lace as undisturbed as possible when zipped up.

ivona-nagel-back

To neaten up the inside, I used a skin coloured dance fabric to line the bodice. It’s very soft, stretchy and comfortable to wear. The inside of the arm holes are finished off with black bias binding.

ivona-nagel-inside

I have to admit, I am in a kind of jumpsuit phase at the moment! I am loving all kinds of jumpsuits: long legged, short, strapless, casual, formal. Anything jumpsuit style! I do hope the fashion sticks around for a while. Do you like jumpsuits too?

 

LOCATION: the backyard!

STYLING: necklace and bracelet: Zara, sunglasses: Margot by Tom Ford, shoes: Zara.

Striped Set

Anyone who has been following my blog for a while now will have very quickly realised that I am definitely a dress person when it comes to sewing. But in everyday life, I DO wear pants, shorts and jeans and not very often, but sometimes I actually do make these too! I haven’t had much luck in sewing well fitted pants in the past, so I am a bit wary of making them. Nevertheless, after a whole lot of dresses, it was time to make and blog something a little different.

Even though I am not your tallest person, I absolutely adore wide legged, palazzo and flared pants. Especially the 70s type.  I know they look better on taller people than myself, but I still love them! I tried to elongate the legs of these as much as possible by making them almost down to the ground.

For this set, I used an original 70s pattern by Teal Traina for the pants and matched them with a strapless top using a modern strapless dress pattern by Kwik Sew, cutting it off about 25 cm below the waist.

    

    

My fabric comes from Tessuti in Melbourne – a beautiful linen/cotton blend in a navy denim look and white stripe. It has a great thickness and drape to it. The stripes are horizontal on the fabric. But I wanted vertical stripes on my pants, so I risked it and cut them out against the grain. I was afraid that the fabric would stretch or go out of shape while wearing the pants because I had cut it against the grain, but luckily, it seems to be holding it’s shape.

The pants were very easy and quick to make. They are darted into an inside ribbon waistband and I used an 18cm invisible zip in the back to close them off. No fussing around.

When it came to the top, I didn’t want the it to have all the stripes going in one direction and definitely not all vertical, because it would just be too boring. I thought it would make it visually more interesting if the stripes middle front and centre back were horizontal and the rest vertical.

The strapless top took a bit more time to make up than the pants. I cut the top using size S and should have known that it was too big for me from the last time when I used this same pattern for my Capri dress. But I was in a rush and thought better be safe than sorry if XS ended up being too small. I will know better next time!

To underline the top, I used a nice, old cotton bed sheet that I had put aside for lining. It had outlived its use as bed linen, but was still very good quality, fine cotton and a shame to throw away. I used two layers of the cotton bed linen as underlining and at first thought it would be too much, but two layers turned out to be a good amount to give the top a good shape and thickness.

I took in each seam until the top fit me in a snug way. Then I contemplated which type of zip to use. I couldn’t use an invisible one, because I wouldn’t be able to get a fitted top on and off without an open end zip. So I bought the shortest open end zip in navy blue I could find and was going to put it in the centre back. But the zip was too long for the back and I didn’t want to cut it and potentially ruin it. I was playing around with it in front of the mirror and by pure stroke of genius found that it had the perfect length to go in the front side seam. I hadn’t seen that before, so why not be different?

The zip was a perfect fit and even though I didn’t put in a hook and eye or button in at the top, it stays in place very well without opening.

To finish off the top on the inside, I didn’t line it but used bias binding to finish off the edges neatly. I thought there were enough layers of fabric in it already with the underlining and it didn’t need any more thickness to it.

After having a look at these photos, I realised that I would need to put some boning in the back of the top to keep any folds from forming. Sometimes you see things in your finished product that need improving after you think the job has been done! Not my favourite thing to do…

 

I think my new matchy matchy set has worked out well. It really was a very rushed job, but the fit is perfect and also very comfortable to wear.

I don’t know about you, but I really like matching tops and bottoms. They are a bit like twin sets of a different kind. I definitely have plans to make some more matching sets of tops and pants and also tops and shorts.

Now that the evenings are very long here in Melbourne after our winter time change, I plan to do lots of sewing. Reality is  that after work and my regular running during the week, I am so tired that don’t get much done at all!

Keep smiling and sewing until next time (hopefully very soon)!

STYLING: hat – Borsalino, Rome, shoes – Windsor Smith, sunglasses – Carlina Square by Chloe, ring – Apart Fashion

LOCATION: Elmore, Victoria

Chloe Collection

When the Chloe spring/summer 2016 collection came out, I flicked through the pictures of each garment on the runway and fell in love with the dresses, top and skirt in the pictures below. They all have a girly retro look about them. I really like the bows and the top stitching. So of course I decided to copy one (for now) and decided it would be the first dress with the two bows on the shoulders – also in navy but without the extreme low cut front.

chloe-dress1     chloe3     chloe2

By doing some research on the internet, I found out that the Chloe dress was made in crepe. I didn’t have navy crepe in my stash, so I thought a navy ponte knit would do the job. I find ponte knit very easy to sew and work with and also nice to wear. Unfortunately I didn’t think about how thick the ponte would be when it came to top stitching. There was a reason for the crepe and not ponte knit in the Chloe collection. But if you don’t look too close…

My ponte knit was from a remnant fabric/clothing store that sells remnants from Australian fashion labels, which I have mentioned a few times on my blog. I stop by every now and then to see what they have in stock when I am in the area, as they are only a few doors down from one of my favourites – The Fabric Store.

I am quite sure it’s a rayon ponte knit because of the beautiful drape of the fabric. And it doesn’t have a synthetic feel to it.

In the photos the ponte comes across as a deep blue but that is just the lighting in the pictures. It is in fact a medium navy blue.

I had to make up the pattern for this dress myself, as I didn’t really have anything similar in my pattern stash. So trial and error it was again until I thought it looked ok! The dress is a slight A line, so it wasn’t rocket science.

I guessed the length of the ties by studying photos of the original on the internet and in magazines and made them a bit longer just in case. Cutting off is easier than regretting and redoing…

The original Chloe dress has a plunging V in the front and back, which was not for me and my bra shapes! So I cut it to a more modest and wearable depth.

The only real issue I had with this dress was the top stitching, which I did with white top stitching thread. The ponte knit was just too thick to top stitch through well and tidily in the shoulder area. Double layers of fabric were fine, but four layers were just too much. The tension was constantly wrong and I had to undo lots of it and start again and again until it was satisfactory at least. Such a pain!

I am not super proud of the result, but I think I can get away with it.

We took the photos of my Chloe dress at Mt Buffalo, while holidaying in beautiful Bright, Victoria. It’s autumn in the Southern Hemisphere and the temperature at Mt Buffalo’s Torpedo Rock (almost at the peak) was a cool 9 degrees Celsius, while down below in town it was 22 degrees! Straight back into the jeans and warm gear after the photos!

Keep sewing and until next time!

STYLING: sunglasses – Carlina Square by Chloe, shoes – Zara, ring – Apart Fashion

LOCATION: Torpedo Rock, Mt Buffalo, Victoria

#2017makenine

So, I know I’m mega late with this one – life has gotten out of control once again! But I just wanted to share my #2017makenine with you before the year gets any older!

Of course I am aiming waaaay too high (again) this year when I think of the list of makes I have planned for 2017. But here are nine that I would really like to complete before the year is out.

Number 1 – Ralph Lauren stripy summer dress as seen on the runway. Not sure which collection it’s from (I found it on Pinterest). Also not sure I will be able to get the gorgeous blue/lilac stripy fabric for it…

2017j

Number 2 – Alex Perry dress that I need to hack. I got the original fabric for the skirt part from Tessuti fabrics and had a look at the original dress at Myer. Hope I can do it justice!

2017i

Number 3 – Simplicity Cynthia Rowley 1104.

2017h

Number 4 – Simplicity Cynthia Rowley 8124. One down, two to go (playsuit is done – see my previous post).

pattern-pic

Number 5 – Simplicity Cynthia Rowley 1105.

2017e

Number 6 – Retro Butterick B6318 in stripes.

2017d

Number 7 – Vintage Simplicity 7000 short sleeveless playsuit.

2017c

Number 8 – Vintage Simplicity 7431 short version dress. I made the long version, which you can see here.

2017b

Number 9 – Vintage Vogue 2414 strapless dress without jacket.

2017a

Sew many things to make, yet sew little time in between life’s duties…sigh…

Happy sewing in 2017 everyone!

 

Australia Day Outfit 2017 – Simplicity 8124

dsc_1161a

Happy belated new year everyone! I hope you have all had a great start to the year. I have had a much too long break from sewing and blogging over the last two months (at least). So it was high time to get the ball rolling again. I realised that I had missed sewing so much when I started to sew this Cynthia Rowley jumpsuit, playsuit or romper – whatever you want to call it! Sewing is always so therapeutic for me, except for when I have to unpick bits and redo them. That ends up having the opposite effect! But yes, I really missed my sewing and blogging.

dsc_1182a

dsc_1236a

I bought this pattern late last year at a Spotlight pattern sale and want to make all the garments that the pattern contains this summer. Soon after, I bought this beautiful 100% cotton also from Spotlight with a wattle print on it and immediately thought I would make a dress out of it.

pattern-pic img_1338

So I started to make a maxi dress and it was almost finished. I tried it on and suddenly decided it was too boring and that I probably wouldn’t wear it much or at all. Since my wardrobe space is extremely limited, I had to make a wise decision. The decision was to deviate to the playsuit by Cynthia Rowley. Luckily, the maxi dress had a straight cut and gathered skirt which was big enough for me to be able to cut out the whole playsuit pattern from. I just wasn’t sure whether I should use the XS or the S size after reading numerous reviews on this pattern. Most of them said that the sizing was very generous and voluminous. So I cut out size S, also leaving the XS markings as an option if I needed them.

dsc_1505a

dsc_1534a

Because the wattle print cotton is white and could be see-through in light, I used an eggshell coloured silk/cotton to underline it with. The only adjustment I made to the cut, was to lengthen the hem of the shorts by about 4cm.

dsc_1551ab

The playsuit was very easy to make. It would have been a lot quicker if I had had the correct width of elastic in my stash. I didn’t, and had to cut some down to the right width and couldn’t get it into the tunnel even then! So frustrating trying to pull it through with a safety pin multiple times and it not fitting through. In the end, the pin broke in the tunnel and I had to pull it out and cut it down by another 1mm to make it fit! But that was the biggest drama of the pattern! The rest was a piece of cake.

dsc_1608a  img_1563

I like the end product but do find that when the top is worn off the shoulder it causes a not too nice looking bulge around the waistline. I don’t know what the solution to this is, because if you only wear it off the shoulder, that’s fine, but if you also want to wear it on the shoulder, there would not be enough length in the bodice…sometimes you can’t win. Still, I do like the pattern and if I do make it again, I will shorten the bodice just a little to allow for a nicer looking waistline if worn off the shoulder, which I prefer.dsc_1724aAustralia Day has come and gone and I was too busy on the day to blog this little playsuit, but here it is – my 2017 Australia Day outfit. This can easily be casual or dressed up depending on your fabric and accessory choice.dsc_1293a

dsc_1156ac

dsc_1640a

STYLING: sunglasses – Chloe, flat sandals – bought in Amalfi, Italy, heels – Steve Madden, belt – Witchery, wreath – synthetic wattle from Spotlight

LOCATION: Bayside walking trail, Mentone